Land of Daidalos and Ikaros. Of Minoan vases and famous frescoes. Shining
and starlit, with its black baggy Breeches and fringed kerchiefs. Romantic
Crete, with its sea, rocks and gleaming plateaus. Crete,
land of full-bodied wine and pungent tsipouro. Sleepless Crete,
land of endless feasts under star-studded skies. Crete, scented
with wild fennel and fresh basil. Dizzying Crete, of the warlike
dances. Crete, home of El Creco, Kornaros, Kazantzakis and
Prevelakis. Crete, whose door is always wide open to both East and
West. The dream of Crete, where a person might soar in flight.
Crete, ” the island of Miracles”.
This island – the largest in Greece – separates the Aegean from the
Libyan Sea, marks the boundary between Europe and Africa. Majestic
mountains rise in its centre – the White Mountains, Psiloritis, Dikti.
Its plateaus are split by deep gorges and end up in fertile valleys.
The scenery is constantly changing. In one place harsh and barren, in
another wooded and gentle. Its villages smothered in greenery.
Olive trees, orange groves, vineyards, early vegetable market gardens.
Old stone farmhouses, monasteries and villages perched on mountain ridges,
castles and chapels forgotten on steep slopes. Shores lined with
forbidding rocks, often inaccessible, but also lots of endless sandy or
pebbly beaches.
Crete is renowned for the variety of its vegetation and the wildlife in
its chestnut, oak and cypress forests. Not to mention its palm forests (at
Vai and Preveli) and its cedar forests (at Gavdos and Hrissi). Medicinal
herbs and fragrant shrubs- laudanum, dittany, marjoram and thyme-grow in
rocky areas and the mountain tops are home of the “Kri-Kri” or Cretan
goat.
The main cities-ports on Crete-Hania, Rethimno, Iraklion, Agios Nikolaos,
Sitia –all grew up on the north side, which is more benign
topographically. Ierapetra is the only port on the south coast, on the
shores of the Libyan Sea, facing Africa.
This island’s fertile soil and towering peaks witnessed the development
of one of the most important civilizations on Earth, the Minoan (2800 –
1150 B.C.). In successive phase, the Minoans built palace – states –the
famous palatial centers of Knossos, Phaistos, Malia, Zakros (1700-1450 B.C).
Their painters and ceramists show us the limits the refinement of art can
reach.
Their frescoes bring us close to the soul of that world, peace-loving,
light-hearted, but also powerful. They bring us close to the sea and its
wealth. A geological catastrophe – the eruption of the volcano of
Santorini in 1450 B.C. – halted the Minoan civilization at its height.
But life did not cease. Though shipping, commerce and trade with other
peoples- the Phoenicians, Syrians, Egyptians – opened up new horizon.
With the invasion of the
Achaians and the Dorians on the island the new cities of Lato and Aptera
were founded. Lato became the most important city on Crete ( 7th
century B.C. ).
Until the Roman occupation (69 – 330 A.D.).
The most distinguished centre in those days was Gortyn.
But Christianity came to the island early. During the Byzantine era the
wealth of Crete was shown off in the mosaic floors of its basilicas and in
half the churches of Greece.
But many others had their eye on these riches. First Crete fell into the
hands of the Arabs (824) for one and a half centuries (961) . Handak,
present- day Iraklio was founded. Then in 1204, the island passed to the
Venetians.
They fortified the old castles at Handak and built new ones at
Gramvoussa, Spinalonga,
Frangokastello, Ierapetra,
Paleohora. They broke the ground for new cities (Hania and Rethimno)
and build the fortifications essential blocks, interspersed with
decorative piazzas, fountains,
churches and palaces, remains of which can still be seen today.
Although the island was shaken from time to time by the
rebellious populace, it continued to develop both economically and
culturally.
Painting and literature flourished.
Domenicos Theotocopoulos ( El Greco ), Damaskinos and other iconographers
painted exquisite portraits and arched windows troubadours passed singing
ballads by Hortantzis about
the suffering of Erotokritos and Erophili.
In 1645 the Muslim conquerors set foot on the
island for the first time. In 1669 the whole of Crete fell to the
Turks. Not until 1913 was the island united with the rest of Greece.
This island with its clear, warm sea, boundless beaches lined with
tamarisks, splendid plateaus and mild starry nights has more to offer than
its past, its gorges, peaks and climate. Today it continues to
live fully and to develop, its cities
particularly changing in appearance from one day to the next, in
contrast to the many unchanging villages where life goes on in the same
rhythm it has for centuries.
There are hundreds of cafes where one
can sit
in the shade of a
spreading plane, oak or mulberry
tree and sip a “tsikoudia” ( raki) while playing a game of cards or
“ tavli “ (backgammon).
There are dozens of tavernas and ouzeries serving some tasty “ meze “,
a specialty of the area. Yogurt and honey, sweet tarts (kaltzounia), pies
made of wild greens flavored with fennel, fried cheese (staka), rabbit stew, cheese pie from Hora
Sfakion, cockles, boiled goat. In the city of Hania, at Malaxa, at
Vrisses, and other villages in the area, in Rethimno, in Iraklio and its
villages, and in the whole district of Lassithi. Fish, sea urchins,
octopus and cuttlefish cooked on charcoal and fried squid to be tasted at
seaside tavernas. And everywhere the delectable Cretan wine. Every
saint’s feast day is celebrated with gusto at dozens of villages
throughout the island; all Crete throbbing to the sound of the Cretan lyre
and the rhythm of the local dances, the pentozali and the sousta.
Meanwhile the housewives are preparing a steamed Cretan pilaff and special holidays fritters
(xerotigana ).
In the shop windows of bustling Iraklio, picturesque Rethimno, and Hania,
elegant furs, precious jeweler and artistic silverware attract the
visitor’s attention.
In the shops of lovely Sitia and tranquil Ierapetra and in mountainous
Anogia one is impressed by the spread out <<patanies>>,
traditional local woven fabrics in dazzling colors, and everywhere one
sees skillfully crafted ceramics and
leather goods. In the “Stivanadika” district of Hahia (Skridlof St.)
traditional boots ( stivania ) are still made in the old- fashioned way,
because though it may seem strange even today there are Cretans who still
wear their traditional costume. In the marketplace of the same city, the
only one of its kind, but also in similar shops all over the island, every
kind of food, fruit and vegetable produced in the fertile valleys, hot
houses and mountain regions, is laid out on display. Exotic avocadoes,
Belgian endive and bananas, juicy oranges and fragrant melons, succulent
figs and tasty prickly pears, delicious grapes, sweet tomatoes, tender
cucumbers, fresh- picked greens from the hillsides, snails, mouth –
watering sardines, tempting lobster, kid from the islet of Gavdos, honey
perfumed with thyme, and wonderful cheeses – graviera ( gruyere ),
myzithra ( ricotta), fresh white cheese, and soft, luscious staka.
The evenings are enchanting spent next to the intoxicating aroma of a
jasmine vine in an open- air cinema, seated in the comfortable chairs of a
pastry shop, gathered round the table or a fish – taverna right by the
sea, strolling in solitude on a remote, deserted beach, or why not,
enjoying the rhythms of rock in a discotheque or a bar or conversing in
the spacious lounge of a luxury hotel. |